Black Diamond Black Prophet Straight

Review Date
June 8, 2003

Overall Rating
 4 of 5

Value Rating
 4 of 5

Reviewed by: STW(Unregistered User) ,  Mountaineer , from New England, USA

Price Paid:  $220.00 at climbing shop

Summary:
These may not be available much longer. They are classics though. I use them for alpine ice routes where I might need to do a boot/axe belay or other more traditional piolet techniques. I use the BD Alaska pick. This is a really awesome combination for alpine situations. It works much better for lower angle ice than the specialized bent shaft tools with reverse-curve picks; but, it still works well enough for the occasional vertical section.

For waterfall ice, I use the bent-shaft carbon fiber black prophets with the cobra pick.

The black prophet is an aluminum shaft with rubber bonded along the entire length. This might make the thing a bit heavier than some other tools on the market, but I have never found it to be too heavy. The positive side of this is that it helps absorb vibration, making it one of the 'dampest' tools you'll ever stick. The trend in the industry now is for smaller diameter shafts. This one is not small. So, people with really small hands might want to try another set of tools. The shafts do have a nice hourglass shape to them, which gives you a very accurate feel for how you are aiming your placements. This tool swings really nicely. Very dependable sticks.

The head design is completely modular and interchangeable. You can easily swap out the adze, hammer or the picks. The attachement is done with a nice big burly screw/bolt. A specialized wrench/tool is supplied; but you can also use the top edge of the ice pick in a pinch - it is designed to be the exact right width to fit the screw slot. It's easy to take care of this setup in the field. There are no tiny parts to drop. Very dependable.

The BD picks are arguably the best in the business. You get good sticks with them right out of the box without having to modify them. They hold up well, too. I've never snapped one.

If you can find a pair of these on sale somewhere, they are a great. Another option would be the new BD Shrike. It is available as a straight shaft for alpine climbing, but does not offer a completely modular head design. It is lighter and has a smaller-diameter shaft though...

Customer Service:
Never had any problems with BD

Similar Products Used:
I've owned older BD X15 tools. I've also tried Charlet Moser and Grivel tools on occasion. They're all fine. I just prefer the BD's.

Review Date
December 23, 1999

Overall Rating
 3 of 5

Value Rating
 3 of 5

Visitors rate this review
5.00 of 5, 1 votes

Reviewed by: Reese Martin(Unregistered User) ,  Climber , from Aspen, CO, USA

Summary:
Great ttol. Light, easy to swing, well damped. I had to modify my swing a bit to put a bit more break in the wrist. Hooks great. Would be a great tool for a mix of alpine & tech. ice. Kinda pricey.

Customer Service:
Never a problem

Similar Products Used:
Charlet Moser -- Quasar; bent & straight Pulsars; Quasar compact