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I beleive this is the best belay device out there for thinner single ropes (9.4-10.2mm). The V-notch catches these small diameter cords very well. I found it to be a bit sticky on the feed for stiff 10.5mm ropes, forget the 11mm. It would probably work for glacier travel with a 8-9mm rope too, especially in "super friction" mode (rope wrapped around the post). No other device has this option.

Customer Service

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Similar Products Used:

BD ATC, Blue Water, Trango Jaws

re-review.

After using the Metolius BRD I don't like this one as much. The BRD locks off just as well with its design as the SBG does with the V-notches. The main difference is on rope pay out and rappel. The rope payout on the SBG takes some muscle to feed it in and out. (soft BEAL 11mm) The rappels on the SBG are much slower than the BRD (I like to go fast) to the point I have to feed the rope into the device at the top of the rappel.

I haven't tried the Trango Jaws but I think that might be better than the SBG because of the more play that the wire retainer gives you.

Customer Service

none

Similar Products Used:

BD ATC
BD 8
Metolius BRD

I love this device. It's simple, and easy to use. It's very easy to control rappel's, and works fine with my 10.2mm rope for belaying. The only thing I've had an issue with is rappeling with larger ropes. It sticks when using 11mm ropes(I'm not sure if it's designed for larger ropes or not).

Similar Products Used:

GriGri's in the sport gyms.

This device works great as a rapell device but works ok as a belay device. It doesn't lock up, but it doesn't provide as much friction. The V nouch makes up for the friction though. I just use it to rapell.

Similar Products Used:

None

I'm assuming this is the same device as the one we can get in New Zealand (as its called the Atoga over here, and to my knowledge they only make one belay device)
Anyway here goes... this thing rocks!
It can handle 8mm - 12mm rope in both single and double styles. The large clarance inside the shell allows stiff ropes and wet ropes or fury ropes to slide smoothly, the static stem on it stops the shell sucking down when pulling/feeding slack and the choice of braking notiches (shallow or "V") give you extra control over braking. In the shallow notch the braking is very smooth just like a good ATC, the "V" notch provides increadable braking with very little effort with a larger dia rope, with a half rope it is very progressive and easy to control.
Now for the negative...
This is a very light weight device so it dose heat up when absailing, but if you go slow this isn't an issue.
If you are working double ropes you have to take it off the bena to clear the ropes, at the crag this isn't an issue, but halfway up a mountain this is dangerous, it needs a small cable/string like what is used on a belay plate to secure it to the belay bena. I've also ping'ed it for value... this thing is worth twice the value of a normal ATC!... but worth it.

Similar Products Used:

Camp, Trango, Black Diamond ATC's

Good belay device. gives good, smooth feal both on belay and rapel. A bit slow on the pay out for stiffer static ropes though. The trango or DB ATC seams a bit faster on rapel and yarding out rope

Customer Service

None

Similar Products Used:

BD ATC