I love my zens, they are my 3rd pair of shoes and my first velcros. They are great because: 1 They go on/off easily because they are velcro, but they perform almost as well as a lace up. 2 I have wider feet and find most climbing shoes don't fit me right, but these fit like a glove. 3 I hated the rubber at first, and even contemplated resoling them with stealth rubber, but once it gets worn in a little it is great, and they edge amazingly well for a velcro/slipper. They are great shoes, mine just blew so i'm going to have them resoled, or buy a new pair. I climb 6 days a week, 4 inside 2 outside, and i used the zens for both, however i do mostly sport limestone climbing, i have used them in cracks and slab, and they worked, but i would reccomned using real shoes for those and not sport slippers.

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I have a pair of 5.10 mojaves and boreal spiders. the spiders are as great as the zens, only stiffer and more padded, for cracks, slab, and all day stuff.

I have found these shoes to preform extremely well from steep to roof to slab climbing, I climb up to 5.12. I rate these shoes very much.If however you sweat a lot they tend to deteriate quicker. Rubber a litlle to thin, could have more to start out with. Great construction and an awesome fit for the right foot shape.

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I also have two pairs of stingers, one pair of old acers and an old pair of bambas. I like the Boreals due to the the low cut below the ankle inside and out.

an amazing shoe, hands down! just wish the rubber was a little stickier and thinner, but with time and wear it comes (ie better feedback). the shape of the shoes allow for some really great edging, highly recommended shoes for advanced climbers!

Some shoes are just good combinations of different characteristics and this one is. Good edging support and still OK sensitivity (sometimes you want more and maybe pyros is then the alternative). The best alround sport/crag climbing shoe.

I have a perfectly good pair of La Sportiva something or other semi-boot style shoes I've been climbing with for the last 10 years. While they work real good for all-around climbing, I thought I might be missing something with technical advances over the past decade. I must say that these shoes seem to work ok in the gym, but they are not so hot on trad climbs. I mostly climb at Squamish and these suck in cracks despite the MEC's claims otherwise. Being a lazy slob, I thought the velcro closures rocked. They certainly make it easier to peel the shoes off to recover from pain trauma. I recently was on a 5.10 climb with a bouldery face start for 10 feet before the real crack begins. I waltzed up this last year with my old shoes but had a hell of a time with these new things. Maybe they need more break-in time (which they may not get as I resort to the tried and true old shoes). They are inexpensive though.

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I've tried a number of 5.10 shoes on that I literally couldn't fit regardless of size - my second toe is slightly longer than my big toe. These Boreal shoes seem to fit my feet better.

Let it be known that I am NOT an experienced climber so take this as you will. I started off with one of the crappiest shoes in existance, the Bufo Weapons. The rubber is the worst I''ve ever used. It sticks to nothing and had me sliding all over the place. Then I got the Zens when a Erowhon store was closing. Luckily I have tiny feet so the sizes left were right in my range. I got a pair that was 2 sizes smaller than my street shoes. These shoes rocked! They were a bit tight at first and I could only wear them for 10-15 minutes at a time but then they stretched out after about a month of climbing and are like an extension of my own feet. The rubber is great and the sensitivity is even better for indoor climbing. I can feel every feature with these shoes and I love it. Edging seems to be ok and smearing is excellent. My one problem with it is the heel is a bit loose and I''ve heard this from other people at the gym. Overall the Zens seem to be a great shoe in my limited experience. I haven''t used them outside yet but summer is here!

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Haven''t had to use it yet.

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Bufo Weapons (junk) 5-10 Spires La Sportiva Kaukulator

Overall a good shoe for the advanced climber. Have had them for a month and they have stretched out slightly, the lining does it''s job. However it''s a hot shoe, my feet sweat like mad in this shoe. Miles ahead of the Spires that these replaced. Only drawback at this pint is that my heal tends to slip out abit.

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5-10 Spire