Awesome shoes. Great for slab, comfy for all-day multipitch. If you're going for something all-round, this is it. If you're looking for something aggressive to send V10, look elsewhere.

Value rating based on retail price in Canada, not what I paid.

Customer Service

dunno.

Similar Products Used:

La Sportiva Mythos

great shoes. slight discomfort at first but thats the nature of rock shoes. agreed they are not the best at smearing, but will latch on to any small edge and stay firm. Stiffer shoe was hard to get used to at first but eventually became comfortable.

Similar Products Used:

boreal diablo five ten Anasazi

pertama - tama saya pakai, agak sedikit sulit menyesuaikan kaki saya dengan kontur sepatunya. Buat edging di point slab and small bagus. Bahan di bagian dalam membuat kaki merasa nyaman dan tidak panas. Sangat cocok untuk si tebing dengan jalur yang panjang. Pijakan terasa sangat yakin untuk dipijak.

Similar Products Used:

Boreal ninja, 5.10 moccasym

As an avid climber for several years now, I finally decided to buy a second pair of shoes. I opted for comfort over function, as I needed something that can last all day. Doesn't do as good in the gyms as it does in the real world. Found it to be a bit cramped at first, but stretched a tad. Now they fit like a glove....err......sock.

Customer Service

never had to call

Similar Products Used:

Boreal Ace

None

None

I have been quite pleased with theese shoes. I can climb all day and not suffer. They fit the shape of my feet perfectly. As others have stated these can get *stinky* and bad stinky at that. The Newton smears fine for me, and is a good all around shoe in my opinion

Similar Products Used:

None

I liked the Moccasym so I thought Newtons would be a good stiff shoe to get. They fit my feet well in the store and I liked the lighter color [Aside: I spent some incredibly uncomfortable days out in the sun in Boreal Aces. The dark color of the Ace soaks up the sun and makes your feet so hot you could scream.].

The breakin time on these wasn't too bad. They perform well on long trad climbs. I agree that they would do better with Stealth rubber on the bottoms. I will be making that change when they need a resole.

My favorite competing shoe in the Newton class is the La Sportiva Synchros. I resoled them with Stealth and they were the bomb. I had a problem with the shoe coming apart at the rand seam though and vowed not to buy another pair. Too bad since the performance rocked.

I think that climbing shoes in the US are horribly overpriced so my value rating reflects this opinion.

Similar Products Used:

Five-10 Moccasym
Boreal Ace
Boreal Stinger
La Sportiva Synchros

About two years ago I purchased my Five.Ten Newtons as my shoe for my Yosemite trip. Previously I was a die-hard slipper wearer and I had the strong toes to prove it. So when I first put the Newtons on I felt disappointed that they didn't have the same sensitivity that my Five.Ten Mocasyms had. This was to be expected though. In any case it was difficult to get used to my Newtons.
Now I have been climbing in my Newtons religiously for nearly a year and they are awesome. They fit snug enough to edge great yet they are not so uncomfortably tight that you have to take them off after 40 feet of climbing. I haven't noticed that the "asymetrical" design lends to any particular performance...it only makes them look funny when they are laced up. but the fact remains that they are a great shoe.
One drawback....these shoes are fully lined which makes them comfortable in cool and cold weather but very hot in warm weather. I have never had a pair of shoes that have stunk SO BAD!!! (and I've owned a lot of climbing shoes). I think it is because of the lining. I have since washed my shoes in Hydrogen Peroxide and then the washing machine and now they are fine.
I've used these shoes for bouldering, sport climbing, crack climbing, multi pitch, even buildering. I would advise them for multi-pitch climbs, slab climbs, or edgy face climbs....ok for bouldering but not great.

Customer Service

Nothing beats Five.Ten rubber.
S2 stealth rubber is by far the stickiest.
Newtons have C4 which is the next best.

Similar Products Used:

I have tried everything from Boreal, Sportiva, Scarpa, and other Five.Ten shoes.

First things first, this shoe was not meant to be a smearing shoe. This thing handles like a sports car on dime edges. I have nothing bad to say about it, 'cept maybe for the white material which tends to get dirty after a day or two of steady climbing. Not a problem if your out there to climb, instead of looking pretty.

Similar Products Used:

scarpa edges

I thought these shoes were really rather crap. The fit is OK, but the sole is very thick and the shapeless toe area can be a real pain, especially when trying to stand in pockets. Overall despite having them nice and tight they are just not very good, I don't feel confident in them and they don't smear well at all. A pale shadow of the brilliance of Anasazi's. Also very expensive.

Similar Products Used:

Boreal Zephyrs, Scarpa Dominators, 5.10 Anasazi's

Very confortable shoe! Incredible edge hold and precise. Still unsure about the smearing capabilities. It sticks, but may no flex enough to get the full shoe smearing. My problem,but worth noting: developed a pain at the top of the big toe and that is where the seems join. If that were'nt there, 5 stars, but 4.75 is awesome.

Similar Products Used:

Boreal Diablo, Dominator and some others (just can't remember all the names)