My first shoe. They served me well and have traveled with me to rocks all over the midwest, Thailand, Korea, and now Alaska. I loved the toe strength and heel support. They''re an excellent intermediate shoe and due to the thicker rubber, they are perfect for rough, hard rock like what you''ll find in Thailand. Since I''ve gotten them about 2 years ago, they have really stretched out in front as well as in the heel. Nowdays I find myself tieing them very tight so that the heel doesn''t slip off. When I first got them I couldn''t wear them for more than three climbs without allowing my feet a little breather. Now they''re like house slippers and therefore will purchase a new pair of shoes. Since I''m doing more bouldering and indoor climbing I will end up buying some slippers instead. Overall, they''re a great shoe that will give you great confidence with your footwork.

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Good sport climbing shoe. I really like the thin, pointy toe for toeing into pockets and holding thin edges. The down turned toe allows good hooking and pulling on sharper rock. The reason I say "sharper rock" is that these aren''t the most sensitive of shoes for feeling and pulling with toes but in return for their lack of sensitivity they offer good power on the big toe for edging. I wouldn''t advise these as a good gym shoe for most routes that I''ve been on (about 5.10-5.11+ and v2-4) because of the lack of feel but if front point power is what you''re after, these deserve a look.

Customer Service

In any communication that I have had with Black Diamond (distributor of Scarpa) they have been nothing but first-class.

Similar Products Used:

Five Ten Moccasym (Very Good) Five Ten Mojave (Suprisingly Good) Five Ten Ascent (Good) La Sportiva Mythos (Very Good) La Sportiva Cobra (Very Good)

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THis is a great shoe that is a giant step up from what my original shoes were like, they have a great feel that allows for added control and precision. and for the price that i paid, it is hard to beat, good product.

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This review is for the Velcro Dominator (2001). Awesome shoe for overhanging stuff, the recurve allows for greta toeing in and hooking, but as expected they sux on anything less than vertical (slabs). The extra rubber over the toe (reminiscent of 5.10 rock sox velcro)holding the side rands together (to minimise stretch) works extremely well with my size 11 dogs (I am in a size 43). They have a very ''boot'' like feel and as such don''t have the same feel as a true slipper, but then again most slippers suck at edging. This shoe is great for steep edging and plastic. Beware of the extra rubber over the toe area as it creates a wear point right on the bend of your toes...ouch time until you wear them in. Great shoe for bouldering and sport climbing.

Customer Service

Scarpa...awesome

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Slippers that I have owned that have the same sorta feel include the Boreal Bamba, 5.10 UFO and 5.10 Rock Sox Velcro.

I like them allot, they kill my feet though but I can climb harder. I think they just need to streach a little. The inner soul is a little rounded and I cant quite edge with it.

Customer Service

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scarpa Helix

Out of 15 pairs of rock shoes, these served me the absolutee worst. I have wide feet. These were way too narrow, too long for the size, and the rubber was too soft for any kind of edging.

Sportiva Mythos fit my wide feet SOOO much better, and edge on the tiniest nubbins. What a shame for scarpa.
I enjoyed Le menestrals so much!

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These boots fit my feet, they are very sensitive on the rock and the curve of the boot is ideal for hooking up with my feet. When these are worn out I will try and get another pair the same. The rubber seems good and they have lasted fairly well.

Customer Service

None ever with any of my Scarpa boots.

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Various other makes before buying these but only on shop floor/wall.

An excellent shoe. I originally bought these for multipitching becasue I can wear them all day without strangling my feet and they give a little more support than most rock shoes. Now, I use them for sport climbing, too. The sole is a little stiffer than my Mocasyms, but I still can get a good feel of the rock, do real technical moves, smear, and edge well with these shoes. Also, they are the only lace-ups that I have found to fit my narrow feet well.

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Boreal Diablos
Mocasyms

Great shoes, comfortable, and they rule at places like Carderock, where the holds are little nothings. The shoes hold their edges very well, and I love them.

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Love these shoes! Great feel. Good for climbing indoors and outdoors both. Unbelievable fit (great for many differant foot sizes; I have a large medium-wide foot and they 45 fit me perfect). They have stood the test of time as well. From all my climbing at the gym, to local outings at Devil's Lake, to climbing large faces out west. A little on the expensive side, but isn't all climbing stuff?

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