Arc Teryx Theta AR Shell Jackets
Arc Teryx Theta AR Shell Jackets
[Jan 20, 2004]
Bjorn Victor
Backpacker
After having used it for more than 2 years, it is time to write a review on this jacket. The fit: Better than most, but not as great as some other reviewers would say. My biggest complaint is the collar. It is too wide and too low so the wind can come in very easily. I always had to wear a Buff neck thing to keep the cold wind out. This is especially necessary when you are riding a bike or some other head first activity. Durability: very good. No scratches or tears or whatever after using it daily in all possible circumstances: trekking, commuting, alpinism,… It was my one “do it all” jacket. Water repellency: very good. The original coating sticks longer than any other jacket I have ever used (except Berghaus paclite smock, see further down). Reproofing with Nikwax gave good results. Waterproof: No! I had the same problem with this jacket as I had with all my previous Gore Tex jackets: after a year (for the Theta AR 2 years!) dark spots start to show on the inside when walking in the rain for more than 5 minutes. Fabric saturation is very fast and it feels and looks wet inside. I send it back and got a refund. The same happened with my north face Kitchatna jackets. I got 3 of those for the price of one! The good thing is that they stand behind there product and are fair in customer support, but I have lost my faith in expensive jackets. I know own a Berghaus Paclite smock and it costs me 200 euro. Way cheaper than the 590 euro I paid for the Theta ar. The first impression of this smock is better than my Theta ar. Less frills and a lot lighter. Maybe not as tough, but I can live with it. My back is also thankful when I stuff it in my pack. Overall: a good jacket but not worth the money they ask. You can find good (better) stuff for less money from Berghaus, Patagonia, Marmot,… |
[Dec 15, 2003]
Boon
Backpacker
Great jacket! Shell and stitching are very very tough. No signs of wear on the jacket even after daily usage for past 3 months. Water repellency revives with a simple wash & dry. The latest version (2002 or 3 I think) features Watertight zippers on all pockets and pit zips, and now also as the main zipper. The hood is still excellent as always with a great brim that doesn't collapse in bad weather, and the Gore-Tex XCR breathes very well. The articulated elbows and very mobile shoulders allow movement in all directions. My only comment is that the sleeve pocket is missing a "zipper garage" and doesn't have a zipper pull. This is really a minor thing. "AR", by the way, stands for "All-Round". For some reason, no salesman I met could answer this, although everyone seems to know that "LT" stands for "Light". Overall though, this jacket is the stuff that legends are made from. Arc-Teryx makes a fantastic jacket! Customer Service I actually first bought a Theta LT jacket, but when a pocket seam came loose and Arc'Teryx offered to replace the jacket, I decided to go for a Theta AR instead. Great customer service once you get a hold of them. A bit hard to reach on the phone, and sometimes they don't email back responses, but overall very good, especially once you make contact with a specific person who works there. Similar Products Used: Arc'Teryx Theta LT Jacket |
[Oct 28, 2003]
Roger C
Day Hiker
I had 3 criteria: 1)North American Product (go to Ebay and see how much gear is being sent out the back doors in China) Without getting too rabid I can no longer support Outdoor gear from the third world. 2)Quality workmanship/functionality 3)Tasteful design that is not a neon walking advertisement for the company. Well i am certainly not dissapointed with my Sangria Theta AR. This is the finest piece of workmanship I have ever seen in a piece of clothing and I am quite abit older than most reading this review. What a relief to get rid of all the velcro closures that other shells have. I sent back a NF Ama dablam because the hook and loop closures drove me nuts. Totally waterproof-as witnessed not by climbing but running my boat up rivers in pouring rain @ 40 mph. Now thats a test. This jacket is spartan but it has forced me to realize I never really needed all those "trick" interior gimmicks anyway. The arm pocket holds my sunglasses and a couple spools of tippet material, it's actually quite handy. The sewing on this jacket has to be seen to believe. Seams that are smaller than most dress shirts. It has the best articulated elbow design on the market. Athletic cut, don't buy this and plan on putting on weight. This purchase was made by calling most of the catalog merchants and talking to the gear heads that fill orders, they all said the same thing-there are many good jackets but only one best...Arc'teryx. MH Ethereal FTX was a best runner up but its like comparing an axe with a saber. Customer Service No experience Similar Products Used: NF Mountain Light/NF Ama Dablam (actually a pretty good jacket, that many underrate. |
[Mar 24, 2003]
daomanj
Mountaineer
Super light and terrific build quality, but I question the following: 1) Why is the main zipper not two way? I know the jacket is cut short in front, but if you put on the shell at a belay you're hosed if you need to expose more of your harness. This would have been a dealbreaker if I had noticed this before buying the jacket. 2) Elastic on the cuffs? Clearly not a feature meant to last a long time in harsh conditions. It's a good thing there's also velcro. 3) The hood is a little sloppy and doesn't follow well when turning your head. No foldaway option like the MH Ehtereal FTX. 4) No inside breast pocket. I didn't think this would be a big deal, but it is. Customer Service n/a Similar Products Used: MH Ethereal FTX - I'll buy another one when this jacket wears out. |
[Mar 13, 2003]
GREEN
Backpacker
Love it. lite weight. good ventilation. used for hiking and biking. lots of comfort and style. costs too much but what are ya gonna do. keeps me dry in all weather. Like the articulation in the sleeves. Had a good wipe out in a hairy corner at high speed on my bike-you could'nt tell. Tough jacket. I'd buy another Arc'teryx someday if I had to. Customer Service have'nt used Similar Products Used: columbia,patagonia,mountain hardware |
[Nov 18, 2002]
drewb
Backpacker
I've never invested this much in a jacket but, I'd do it again after buying one of the Arc'teryx Theta AR Shells. It's rock solid. You feel like your inside a vault at Ft. Knox. Protected from the elements but not overburdened by bulk or weight. I've had the jacket in torrential downpours with no apparent leakage. Throw an Arc'teryx gamma AR fleece under the shell and its like an oven but breathable. I highly recommend this shell. Nothing I've had in the past compares. Customer Service Called to see if it was in stock and they shipped it out right away. Similar Products Used: North Face Stance Jacket, Mountain Hardwear Ethereal Epic Parka |
[Nov 13, 2002]
Orka66
Backpacker
I must say, I gulped pretty heavily when I saw the pricetag of the Theta AR. Then I thought about how much use shells get in my household. My girlfriend and I use them for EVERYTHING, in every type of season and weather condition imaginable. For my money, a well-constructed, waterproof shell is the most versatile piece of outerwear going, period. And, having lived with the Theta now for close to a month, any trace of buyer's remorse I may have had at the outset is long gone. This is hands-down the best shell I've owned--and I've owned a few in my time: Marmot, TNF, Mountain Hardwear, Lowe, and Moonstone, among others. Considering the jacket's ruggedness, it's unbelievably light. My Marmot uses approximately the same-weight nylon but is still significantly heavier and more cumbersome than the ArcTeryx. And the ArcTeryx is the clear winner in the detail department. From the die-cut seamtape to the sealed zipper to the easy-grab cuffs, it's obviously that A LOT of thought and testing went into the design of this jacket. No, $450 ain't exactly cheap for what, on the outside, looks like a flimsy piece of fabric with pockets, but once you slip it on and expose it to the elements, it's hard to be angry at yourself for spending the money. It's THAT good. I would've liked to have seen a few more pockets, but no doubt waterproofness was the guiding factor in keeping the the number of pockets to a relative minimum. My Marmot had more storage space than most basements, so I guess I became spoiled in that regard. Also, the zippers can be a little difficult to slide at first, but they loosen up after a while. Apart from those two minor gripes, I can't think of anything even remotely negative to say about the Theta. It's easily one of the best all-around shells on the market. Combine it with ArcTeryx's Gamma jacket, and you've got serious protection from Mother Nature's hissy fits. Not cheap, but worth every penny when conditions turn foul. Recommended without hesitation. Similar Products Used: TNF Mountain Light, Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, Lowe Moonstone, Patagonia, etc. |
[Jun 24, 2002]
Robert Glenn
Day Hiker
Wow, what a fantastic jacket. I wanted something a bit shorter and closer fitting than my previous jacket (North Face Kichatna) and this fits the bill. Much better construction that NF, and incredibly light. No frills, just what you need where you need it. Sure it's expensive, but if you look at other 3 layer jackets you'll see the price isn't out of line. I like it better than the Beta since the heavy panels cover more area. The only reason I didn't give it 5 stars is that $420 is a lot for a jacket. Similar Products Used: North Face, Marmot |
[Apr 23, 2002]
WES
Backpacker
Rather than repeat every other comment, allow me simply to say I have never been so satisfied as I am with this jacket, even at this price. You will not...CAN NOT...be dissatisfied (no matter what the guy from Rochester says). Similar Products Used: North Face, Marmot Armstrong |
[Apr 11, 2002]
kjeks
Skier
The best jacket I know of! Excellent shape, outstanding quality. Have used it for more than a year now, all seasons (-30C, +20C), hiking, backcountry skiing mountaineering, etc. The elbow design is great, the hood fits over a helmet, the pocket zips are long and easy to reach, the 3 front pockets can be used without problems with mittens on, etc, etc. Only good things to say about this jacket. After a year of hard use the fabric has started to show signs of wear in some places (elbows, cuffs), but not more than I would have excpected. Expensive jacket, but definately worth it. Would have bought it again, no doubt. Customer Service Good (when I emailed some questions about my Bora pack) Similar Products Used: Two different Berghaus can''t-remember-the-name, both worn out and not _anywhere_ near Arc''Teryx in quality. |